Saturday, December 20, 2008

The Good Old Days

By Cindy Cross

Over the past twenty years, the number of restaurants in the city where I live has grown at a dizzying pace. At least eighty restaurants have opened in my neighborhood in the course of the last two years.

The once quiet shady streets are now lined with so many shiny new, brightly lit restaurants, that they seem to be fighting each other for space. Unfortunately the awful smells of exhaust coming out of their air conditioning units cover up what ever delicious mouthwatering smells could waft through the restaurants door, choking any would-be customers as they walk by.

The new restaurants all have one thing in common, a rigid caste system of restaurant managers, assistant restaurant managers, dining room managers, kitchen managers, each proudly displaying name and rank on the name tag pinned to his or her chest. These tags are status symbols and are meant to let you, the client, know that the bearer has attended and graduated from a restaurant or hotel management school.

The food isn't any tastier considering what else is happening in this place. It slows down the rate off service. Too many cooks spoil the broth particularly when each of the cooks is jealously guarding his or her station, hoping to do better than their colleagues just a few tables away.

Doing better, of course, is measured in cash, not in the number of regular clients gained. I am convinced that at those restaurant and hotel management schools a course is offered on how to combine dishonesty and intimidation when recommending the most expensive meal on the menu.

Augmenting the value of his or her cash income is often done and expected of the enterprising assistant to the assistant manager. This relies on the assistant managers' ingenious techniques of intimidation to obtain excessive and unwarranted tips.

In the past the most successful restaurants were operated by those people that truly cared. They cared about the restaurant and therefore cared about the clientele. Mom and pop food establishments, where there are no name tags or caste system, often form personal business relationships with the local butcher, fishmonger or vegetable vendor. They would not be above going to market and buying the freshest products available to use for cooking dishes they could taste and appreciate, not dishes bearing long fancy unpronounceable names imported from across seas and oceans and horribly mangled, in any case.

Before restaurant management and hotel schools spread in my country, you could dine in a restaurant and ask what was good that night. The manager, owner, waiter, kitchen boy, whomever, would answer you honestly and enthusiastically. They would tell you that the roast chicken is so good you are bound to eat your fingers after having it, a local expression they would use when they are right 90% of the time. - 15246

About the Author: